but I'm finding that unless the pattern pieces are mathematically similar (in the video, your pattern pieces were all divisible by 25) the process doesn't seem to work out as well and I end up having to move individual lines in order to get them to line up. Even then, there are wonky areas where the mesh wants to do its own thing, like this:
Yeah, my "best for" is more of "works well only for". This why I specified that segments must be divisible by the same double figure for things to work. I really do not recommend that method for anything that does not fulfil all requirements. You will spend more time trying to adjust and fix topology than it would take to make it from scratch. If you could show what you're working on or share the obj file, I'll tell which way is the best. Personally, I find manual retopology with BSurface addon
(starting from 8:06) to be the most universal. It can be time-consuming for meshes with a lot of folds and wrinkles, but your final topology will be as perfect as it can get. If you want me to use your mesh as an example, it would be best to send an MD file instead of an obj one so that I will be able to split it evenly ( if needed ).
But just so you know:
1). In the latest version of MD, you can change the length of the segment by right-clicking on it and choosing Change length ( as to make all of them divisible by the same double figure);
2). If this will lead to loose fabric, you can shrink it back by adjusting Shrinkage Weft/Warp
(0:53).But again, do not recommend this method.
Btw, you can pirate Zbrush and buy it once (if) you start making money of it. But again, it is not necessary. I spent a lot of time editing meshes after Zremesher, so next time I'll make clothing, I'll probably just use BSurface addon ( it's just that i learnt about it fairly recently ).
As for getting good, lol, thank you, I just watched many tutorials on related matters and made many mistakes to learn from.
1). The topology is as even as possible - not necessary if you're choosing a different retopology method;
2). Whether you need to remove doubles of the nude mesh depends on what you plan on using as a reference for uv_1 transfer. If something else, then you can remove them, if the nude body, then no;
4). Not sure what you mean by "ea UVs will disappear". We give the same names to corresponding UV maps of meshes that are to be combined to ensure that UV maps will combine, too. If the names are different, we will end up with one mesh that has 4+ uv maps instead of two;
5). So the thing about references. First, you can have different references for weight and uv_1 transfer. Second, you can transfer weights from a different mesh than the one you will be replacing in the package BUT make sure they have the same vertex groups ( as in, if you transferred weights from something that has skirt bones, the corresponding meshes from the blend you're going to replace should also have them) . Third, you can disregard the number of meshgroups if you will only use the outfit to transfer data, but it is important when it comes to choosing the outfit to start the package from ( final assembly ). As for anything else, you're right. It is best to choose meshes that are split in a way that makes sense ( bottom of the feet is split into 3-4 meshgroups? To interact with shoes. One finger is cut of from the rest of the mesh? Makes no sense, find a different mesh);
7). You should close holes before transferring uv_1 map, but unwrap them only in uv_0;
8). This step should go after 6. Join all of the reference's meshgroups right after you append it;
9). • Checkmark "Face Corner Data." - and in the drop down menu choose Nearest face interpolated. Gives best results. And after applying the modifier, make sure to check the results. Nothing should be stretched.
11- 13). I suggest to join the nude body with the MD mesh at the very end, before assigning cut numbers. There is a different way of putting UVs in vacant places:
1). In 3D view select everything with A. In UV editor activate sync. Press B to activate box selection and select all MD mesh's UV islands;
2). in 3D view press P and choose Selection to separate the dress from the body;
3). Switch viewport shading to solid to see the wireframe better;
4-5). Select everything that is covered by the MD mesh leaving one loop of vertices at the bottom to prevent holes from appearing in the process of walking;
6). press Delete and choose Faces;
7-8). You can select edges as I did and in the pic and dissolve them;
9-10). Once done, select everything and set the background image. Shift-select the dress, switch to Edit mode, select everything, set the same exact background image. View- Draw other objects to see the body's UVs.
11). S to scale, G to move, R to rotate. S or G followed by Y/X will constrain modifications to the vertical/horizontal axis. R followed by a number will rotate the selection by this number.
Place them like this so that it would not overlap with the body's UVs.
14). You MUST set up the background image BEFORE doing anything to UVs. The default UV space is square while TS4 textures are rectangular. When you set up a rectangular background image, the UV islands double in size vertically ONLY. So you end up with stretched UV islands. You should set up the background image first and shrink down ALL UV islands in half ( S Y .5 ). Only after that should you start moving them around;
18). You do not have to use older version of Blender. You just need to tweak the settings;
24). There's no need in checking all of them, just a few;
25). Again, only if you're going to replace said mesh in S4S;
28). You must switch shading to bounding box first in newer versions of Blender. You should also paint dresses differently, as I explained;
30). I've never baked textures in Blender, so I have nothing to say on this matter. Yes, by making Diffuse and Shadow map 2048x4096, Specular map 1024x2048, Normal any, you're making your CC compatible with HQ mod;
32). You can separate the clothing from the body to save render time. In Maya I apply a material that is not being affected by lights to nude body parts only and use the baking results to make Shadow map.
This is how TheSlyd's makes shadow maps;
Ok, so let me add a couple of steps and fix the order:
1). Create a 3d mesh > type in "Lingerie" in the search bar > choose Lingerie set > Next > Mesh tab > Export;
2). Open the blend > File > Export > Wavefront (.obj);
3). In MD File > Open > Avatar > choose your .obj > Open > Scale: m > ok;
4). Create clothing. If your mesh has to be symmetrical in 2d or/and 3d space, make sure to use Linked editing ( for example, create patterns for the left side of the dress ( front and back ), stitch them, select them, RMB-click and choose Symmetrical pattern ( with Sewing ) ). It is best if the clothing's seams are along the body's seam;
5). If using MD 8+, make sure to finish by going to UV editor, choosing Set UV from patters alignment first and Fit UV to unified ( 0 - 1 ) second;
6). If your 3d mesh ( not patterns ) is or has to be symmetrical, select one side of it ( preferably the left one, in Blender side view ( 3 key ) shows the left side) and go to File > Export > OBJ ( Selected ). If it is not symmetrical, just File > Export > OBJ;
7). Your export settings depend on the type of retopology you choose. But you should always uncheck Select All Avatars, check Unified UV coordinates, choose Single Object, Thin and m
in Scale. Make sure Axis conversion is set to X Y Z;
8). Open lingerie's blend again. Select the mesh, Object tab > Display > Wire;
9). File > import > Wavefront (.obj) > your obj;
10). Do manual retopology with
BSurface addon. To understand this whole "good edge flow/topology" thing and why it matters, watch
this;
11). Once you have one side or the whole thing retopologized, Shading/UVs tab > Shading > Faces > Smooth, apply Shrinkwrap modifier and either transfer the UVs from the original MD mesh, or unwrap the thing. Don't forget to cover holes and unwrap them, too;
12). If you've done only one side, flip it and its UVs with Mirror modifier. Enable clipping, too, and increase Merge distance if not all vertices in the middle were merged;
13). Rename the map to uv_0 and create a new one. Name it uv_1;
14). Clone an outfit that is the closest to yours in shape. Try to avoid the ones that have belts, fold and other minor details. Export the mesh and append in your scene. Join all of its meshgroups;
15). Add Data transfer to the retopologized mesh. Set it like this:
16). Check the uv_1 map, if the seams on the clothing match the one on the body, your uv_1 will be perfect. If there are imperfection on the borders, use stitching to fix it. Seems like I've never showed it in any of my tutorials, how thoughtful of me, anyway, here:
- in UV editor select everything with A. Disable sync if it was enabled;
- disable Sticky Selection mode, switch to Face select and choose a face that was "ripped of". Move it closer to the place where it should be;
- switch to Edge select and select shared edges;
- UVs - Stitch, LMB-click to confirm the action.
17). Find a reference to transfer weights and append it in the scene. Select the retopologized mesh, Shift-select the reference, switch to weight paint, transfer weights, use Clean tool
(from 2:08 to 2:45);
18). Vertex paint the thing as I explained;
19). Delete the parts of the nude body that are hidden by clothing. You can use Remove doubles with a very small Merge distance ( 0,0001 ) to remove the seam. Select uv_0, select everything with A, set the background image;
20). Shift-select the retopologized mesh, choose its uv_0, select everything, set THE SAME background image, View - Draw other objects;
21). G to move, S to scale, R to rotate. Following the first two with X will constrain changes to the horizontal axis, Y to vertical. Following R with any number between -359 to 359 will rotate the selection by it. So with ALL UV islands selected, type S Y 0.5 to shrink everything by half and bring it back to it's initial size. Put everything in place of faces you've deleted from the nude body. You can also put things in between arms. I suggest to not put things in
the extra space under arms unless you absolutely have to, many creators do this and it leads to texture overlap.
22). When geometry is extruded ( which is what we do when giving MD meshes thickness ), it creates a sharp edge, which in turns creates dark shadow along itself. It seems that The Sims 4 Studio is programmed to split the mesh along borders of UV islands, so if the geometry created to cover holes is unwrapped properly, you will not get the shadow ingame. However, it will still be visible on the baking results. These sharp edges should be selected with Alt-RMB ( Shift-Alt-RMB to add more to the current selection) and either split ( Mesh > Edges > Split edge ) or marked as sharp ( Shading/UVs tab > Shading > Edges > Sharp );
23). File > Save. File > Save As > The_name_of_the_project_LOD0. Delete all references, the original MD mesh, rig.001-2, bone_bone_shape.001-2. Merge the nude body with the clothing mesh. If needed, split the mesh into corresponding parts ( P- Selection ) using a reference and give them
cut numbers;
24). ONLY NOW can you import the blend into The Sims 4 Studio. NEVER BEFORE ASSIGNING CUT NUMBERS. So find the right one and save it in Mods folder;
25). In UV editor select everything and go to UVs > Export UV Layout. Set it like this:
26). Import the image in diffuse in s4s. Save and check in CAS. Choose the default body, play with all sliders, test some walks and traits;
27). If there are problems, fix them. Once done, bake textures. Create Normal, shadow, specular maps;
28). Make LODs.