I have a request, please. And if I've posted this in the wrong section I do apologize; feel free to move this, moderators.
I'm trying to teach myself to make clothing for Sims 4 with Marvelous Designer (I make the meshes then get stuck), and all the tutorials that I'm finding, and I'm talking about tutorials that teach how to get an MD mesh into The Sims 4, are all for tops. I'm at the point still where I really need to be walked through things right now, so a tutorial on how to get a dress or any other kind of full body outfit would be so appreciated. Seriously, it would help me tremendously. I think it would help others, as well. Are any available? Or can some brilliant creator here put one together?
Vertex paint determines what variation of deformation maps will be used for the mesh. There is a number of deformation maps related to body mass (muscles, fat) and age, but they all come it two variations: skin-tight and robe-like. More about it here. Basically what you need to understand is that any region of clothing that is loose (bottom part of dresses, skirts, coats, robes, cloaks, etc) should be painted with 3FFF00, while any other part of the body (not head or feet ) should be painted with 00FF00. they should transition smoothly into each other, so use Smooth vertex colors as shown down below Start by painting the dress with skin-tight 00FF00 1). Switch to Vertex paint and enable Face Selection masking for painting; 2). Press A to select everything unless the wireframe is already pure white like in the pic; 3). Click on the white color; 4). Type in 00FF00; 5). Paint - Set vertex colors.
Then sample the very bottom of the skirt that is closest to your mesh in shape 1). Switch viewport shading to Bounding box; 2). Choose a dropper; 3). Sample the color.
Then paint the bottom of the mesh: 1). In edit mode disable Limit selection to visible; 2). Press B and select the mesh kind of, um, in the middle of the pelvic bone? like I did in the pic; 3). Switch to vertex paint. Enable Face selection masking for painting; 4). It remembers the color you sampled last. Paint - Set vertex color; 5). Press A to deselect, press A again to select everything, Paint - Smooth vertex colors.
This helps, and I appreciate it very much. I seem to do better when I'm walked through a project--like the one Orangemittens did for earrings. That taught me a lot. It's just my learning style, I guess.
And while I've got your attention, Mauvemorn, I've been trying to follow your video tutorial on fixing the topology of a mesh in Marvelous Designer using the offset internal line function, but I'm finding that unless the pattern pieces are mathematically similar (in the video, your pattern pieces were all divisible by 25) the process doesn't seem to work out as well and I end up having to move individual lines in order to get them to line up. Even then, there are wonky areas where the mesh wants to do its own thing, like this:
I haz questions.
1. What are my options if my pattern pieces are mathematically NOT equivalent? I don't have Zbrush and absolutely can't afford it, so I'm pretty limited to Blender or any other kind of free software.
Also, since I am mainly a read/write learner and it helps to write directions using my own words (Doing this makes your brain think actively about a subject, rather than just passive reading), I wrote some directions for myself. Did I get anything wrong? And I'm sorry if I'm being a pain about all of this. I'm struggling with the oh-so-fun learning curve at the moment. Don't worry, I'll catch on eventually and my many, many questions will come to an end.
1. Make the mesh in Marvelous Designer, making sure it's in the form of quads, the topology is as even as possible, and the clothing seams line up with the TS4 Avatar seams. Export as an .obj file.
2. Clone a body—nude top, nude bottom, or perhaps some full body one, depending on what you're making (e.g. a dress) to eventually join with your MD mesh. This is needed because the final mesh will include body parts. DO NOT REMOVE DOUBLES.
3. Opened the .blend cloned body mesh in Blender and import the MD .obj mesh.
4. Make sure the MD mesh has uv_0 and uv_1, in that order, and this is possibly case-sensitive. This is important. If you don't do this then as soon as you join the EA and MD meshes the EA UV will disappear.
5. Clone an EA mesh similar to your mesh that you'll use to transfer data from and be sure to remember that the number of groups is important. If, for instance, you clone a dress that has four groups—the mesh has been split into four groups—then you will have to split your MD mesh—once your MD mesh has been combined with the body parts—into four groups. If possible, it's best to clone a CAS item that doesn't have a lot of groups.
6. Append the cloned EA mesh used to transfer data from. (It'll say s4studio_mesh_1, I think)
7. Close holes in the neck, arms, and bottom of your MD mesh. Unwrap the UVs of these new faces you just created to close the holes, and it helps to unwrap for both UV_1 and UV_0. Oftentimes, you can just choose “Project from View” when unwrapping these new faces.
8. Join the appended EA mesh sections together to make the UV_1.
9. Transfer data from the EA cloned mesh (e.g. a dress if that’s what you’re making; not the body mesh that will be part of the final product). This is how it is done:
• Highlight the MD mesh, and under Modifiers, choose "Data Transfer."
• Under "Source Object" choose the EA mesh you are transferring data from.
• Checkmark "Face Corner Data."
• Under "Custom Normals" you'll see a box that says, "UV."
• Click on "UV" and under "All Layers" choose "uv_1" (They are dropdown menus)
• Click "Apply."
10. Delete the joined appended mesh, then re-append the mesh you’re transferring data from.
11. Move the MD UV pieces off to the side and out of the way.
12. Delete the faces from the cloned body mesh that are hidden under the MD mesh.
13. Join the cloned body, top, or bottom mesh (whichever is being used) and the MD mesh.
14. Edit the UV map; open the CAS map image in the UV editor. This is so that you can be sure that all UV pieces are placed where they should be—tops in the top section, bottom in the bottom section, etc.—and that the UV pieces don’t overlap into areas of the CAS map they shouldn’t. If this happens, your mesh will pick up textures from other parts of your sim. For instance, pants picking up shoe textures.
15. Save your work. You should have both your MD mesh joined with the body parts and the mesh you’re transferring data from in the saved file.
16. Transfer weights: Open the .blend file you just saved in Blender 2.70.
17. In the upper right box, highlight the joined MD mesh.
18. Where the "Object Mode" and "Edit Mode" are, choose, "Weight Paint."
19. On the left panel--the one that opens and closes with the keyboard shortcut "T"--click the button that says, "Transfer Weights." If it isn't available, you might have to use the 2.70 version of Blender.
20. After clicking "Transfer Weights," Click the joined MD mesh. Hopefully, the entire joined mesh will turn blue, or whatever color it should be.
21. Hide the mesh you're transferring data from.
22. Click on the button on the right side that is an upside-down triangle.
23. Change the color button on the bottom panel from "Texture" to "Solid."
24. Under "Vertex Groups," which is in the upside-down triangle button, click on all the bones that apply to your joined MD mesh to check that they are there. Parts of the mesh should light up as you click on them.
25. Make sure the cut numbers of your joined MD mesh match the mesh you're transferring data from; there will be a cut number for each group.
26. Delete the mesh you're transferring data from.
27. Go into "Vertex Mode" found on the bottom panel where "Object Mode" is.
28. On the right panel, click on the color bar that's under the color circle. The eyedrop button will appear. Use the eyedropper to pick up the green color that the joined MD mesh is. At this point, only the body portions will be green, the MD mesh itself will not be, but we are making the entire joined MD mesh green. The hex code, I think, is 00FF00. For information on vertex painting a dress, see the document titled, "TS4 Clothing About Vertex Painting a Dress."
29. Under "Paint" on the bottom panel, click "Set Vertex Colors." The entire mesh should turn green. This is for a shirt; a dress might involve more work/tweaking.
30. Bake a Multiplier. In the video, she made the black image 2048x4096. Presumably, to make it more high definition. "Samples" set to 15; "Margin" set to 3 or 4.
31. Export baked image and UV layout.
32. Open the bake image in Photoshop and delete the body parts from the baked multiplier, then clean up any weird looking areas.
33. Make another layer and set the mode to "Screen." "Hue" works if you want to make an overlaying color show the folds underneath.
34. Merge Both layers together making sure to retain transparency. Save as PNG.
but I'm finding that unless the pattern pieces are mathematically similar (in the video, your pattern pieces were all divisible by 25) the process doesn't seem to work out as well and I end up having to move individual lines in order to get them to line up. Even then, there are wonky areas where the mesh wants to do its own thing, like this:
Yeah, my "best for" is more of "works well only for". This why I specified that segments must be divisible by the same double figure for things to work. I really do not recommend that method for anything that does not fulfil all requirements. You will spend more time trying to adjust and fix topology than it would take to make it from scratch. If you could show what you're working on or share the obj file, I'll tell which way is the best. Personally, I find manual retopology with BSurface addon (starting from 8:06) to be the most universal. It can be time-consuming for meshes with a lot of folds and wrinkles, but your final topology will be as perfect as it can get. If you want me to use your mesh as an example, it would be best to send an MD file instead of an obj one so that I will be able to split it evenly ( if needed ).
But just so you know:
1). In the latest version of MD, you can change the length of the segment by right-clicking on it and choosing Change length ( as to make all of them divisible by the same double figure);
2). If this will lead to loose fabric, you can shrink it back by adjusting Shrinkage Weft/Warp (0:53).
But again, do not recommend this method.
Btw, you can pirate Zbrush and buy it once (if) you start making money of it. But again, it is not necessary. I spent a lot of time editing meshes after Zremesher, so next time I'll make clothing, I'll probably just use BSurface addon ( it's just that i learnt about it fairly recently ).
As for getting good, lol, thank you, I just watched many tutorials on related matters and made many mistakes to learn from.
1). The topology is as even as possible - not necessary if you're choosing a different retopology method;
2). Whether you need to remove doubles of the nude mesh depends on what you plan on using as a reference for uv_1 transfer. If something else, then you can remove them, if the nude body, then no;
4). Not sure what you mean by "ea UVs will disappear". We give the same names to corresponding UV maps of meshes that are to be combined to ensure that UV maps will combine, too. If the names are different, we will end up with one mesh that has 4+ uv maps instead of two;
5). So the thing about references. First, you can have different references for weight and uv_1 transfer. Second, you can transfer weights from a different mesh than the one you will be replacing in the package BUT make sure they have the same vertex groups ( as in, if you transferred weights from something that has skirt bones, the corresponding meshes from the blend you're going to replace should also have them) . Third, you can disregard the number of meshgroups if you will only use the outfit to transfer data, but it is important when it comes to choosing the outfit to start the package from ( final assembly ). As for anything else, you're right. It is best to choose meshes that are split in a way that makes sense ( bottom of the feet is split into 3-4 meshgroups? To interact with shoes. One finger is cut of from the rest of the mesh? Makes no sense, find a different mesh);
7). You should close holes before transferring uv_1 map, but unwrap them only in uv_0;
8). This step should go after 6. Join all of the reference's meshgroups right after you append it;
9). • Checkmark "Face Corner Data." - and in the drop down menu choose Nearest face interpolated. Gives best results. And after applying the modifier, make sure to check the results. Nothing should be stretched.
11- 13). I suggest to join the nude body with the MD mesh at the very end, before assigning cut numbers. There is a different way of putting UVs in vacant places:
1). In 3D view select everything with A. In UV editor activate sync. Press B to activate box selection and select all MD mesh's UV islands; 2). in 3D view press P and choose Selection to separate the dress from the body; 3). Switch viewport shading to solid to see the wireframe better; 4-5). Select everything that is covered by the MD mesh leaving one loop of vertices at the bottom to prevent holes from appearing in the process of walking; 6). press Delete and choose Faces; 7-8). You can select edges as I did and in the pic and dissolve them; 9-10). Once done, select everything and set the background image. Shift-select the dress, switch to Edit mode, select everything, set the same exact background image. View- Draw other objects to see the body's UVs. 11). S to scale, G to move, R to rotate. S or G followed by Y/X will constrain modifications to the vertical/horizontal axis. R followed by a number will rotate the selection by this number. Place them like this so that it would not overlap with the body's UVs.
14). You MUST set up the background image BEFORE doing anything to UVs. The default UV space is square while TS4 textures are rectangular. When you set up a rectangular background image, the UV islands double in size vertically ONLY. So you end up with stretched UV islands. You should set up the background image first and shrink down ALL UV islands in half ( S Y .5 ). Only after that should you start moving them around;
18). You do not have to use older version of Blender. You just need to tweak the settings;
24). There's no need in checking all of them, just a few; 25). Again, only if you're going to replace said mesh in S4S; 28). You must switch shading to bounding box first in newer versions of Blender. You should also paint dresses differently, as I explained; 30). I've never baked textures in Blender, so I have nothing to say on this matter. Yes, by making Diffuse and Shadow map 2048x4096, Specular map 1024x2048, Normal any, you're making your CC compatible with HQ mod; 32). You can separate the clothing from the body to save render time. In Maya I apply a material that is not being affected by lights to nude body parts only and use the baking results to make Shadow map. This is how TheSlyd's makes shadow maps;
Ok, so let me add a couple of steps and fix the order:
1). Create a 3d mesh > type in "Lingerie" in the search bar > choose Lingerie set > Next > Mesh tab > Export;
2). Open the blend > File > Export > Wavefront (.obj);
3). In MD File > Open > Avatar > choose your .obj > Open > Scale: m > ok;
4). Create clothing. If your mesh has to be symmetrical in 2d or/and 3d space, make sure to use Linked editing ( for example, create patterns for the left side of the dress ( front and back ), stitch them, select them, RMB-click and choose Symmetrical pattern ( with Sewing ) ). It is best if the clothing's seams are along the body's seam;
5). If using MD 8+, make sure to finish by going to UV editor, choosing Set UV from patters alignment first and Fit UV to unified ( 0 - 1 ) second;
6). If your 3d mesh ( not patterns ) is or has to be symmetrical, select one side of it ( preferably the left one, in Blender side view ( 3 key ) shows the left side) and go to File > Export > OBJ ( Selected ). If it is not symmetrical, just File > Export > OBJ;
7). Your export settings depend on the type of retopology you choose. But you should always uncheck Select All Avatars, check Unified UV coordinates, choose Single Object, Thin and m
in Scale. Make sure Axis conversion is set to X Y Z;
8). Open lingerie's blend again. Select the mesh, Object tab > Display > Wire;
9). File > import > Wavefront (.obj) > your obj;
10). Do manual retopology with BSurface addon. To understand this whole "good edge flow/topology" thing and why it matters, watch this;
11). Once you have one side or the whole thing retopologized, Shading/UVs tab > Shading > Faces > Smooth, apply Shrinkwrap modifier and either transfer the UVs from the original MD mesh, or unwrap the thing. Don't forget to cover holes and unwrap them, too;
12). If you've done only one side, flip it and its UVs with Mirror modifier. Enable clipping, too, and increase Merge distance if not all vertices in the middle were merged;
13). Rename the map to uv_0 and create a new one. Name it uv_1;
14). Clone an outfit that is the closest to yours in shape. Try to avoid the ones that have belts, fold and other minor details. Export the mesh and append in your scene. Join all of its meshgroups;
15). Add Data transfer to the retopologized mesh. Set it like this:
16). Check the uv_1 map, if the seams on the clothing match the one on the body, your uv_1 will be perfect. If there are imperfection on the borders, use stitching to fix it. Seems like I've never showed it in any of my tutorials, how thoughtful of me, anyway, here:
- in UV editor select everything with A. Disable sync if it was enabled;
- disable Sticky Selection mode, switch to Face select and choose a face that was "ripped of". Move it closer to the place where it should be;
- switch to Edge select and select shared edges;
- UVs - Stitch, LMB-click to confirm the action.
17). Find a reference to transfer weights and append it in the scene. Select the retopologized mesh, Shift-select the reference, switch to weight paint, transfer weights, use Clean tool (from 2:08 to 2:45);
18). Vertex paint the thing as I explained;
19). Delete the parts of the nude body that are hidden by clothing. You can use Remove doubles with a very small Merge distance ( 0,0001 ) to remove the seam. Select uv_0, select everything with A, set the background image;
20). Shift-select the retopologized mesh, choose its uv_0, select everything, set THE SAME background image, View - Draw other objects;
21). G to move, S to scale, R to rotate. Following the first two with X will constrain changes to the horizontal axis, Y to vertical. Following R with any number between -359 to 359 will rotate the selection by it. So with ALL UV islands selected, type S Y 0.5 to shrink everything by half and bring it back to it's initial size. Put everything in place of faces you've deleted from the nude body. You can also put things in between arms. I suggest to not put things in the extra space under arms unless you absolutely have to, many creators do this and it leads to texture overlap.
22). When geometry is extruded ( which is what we do when giving MD meshes thickness ), it creates a sharp edge, which in turns creates dark shadow along itself. It seems that The Sims 4 Studio is programmed to split the mesh along borders of UV islands, so if the geometry created to cover holes is unwrapped properly, you will not get the shadow ingame. However, it will still be visible on the baking results. These sharp edges should be selected with Alt-RMB ( Shift-Alt-RMB to add more to the current selection) and either split ( Mesh > Edges > Split edge ) or marked as sharp ( Shading/UVs tab > Shading > Edges > Sharp );
23). File > Save. File > Save As > The_name_of_the_project_LOD0. Delete all references, the original MD mesh, rig.001-2, bone_bone_shape.001-2. Merge the nude body with the clothing mesh. If needed, split the mesh into corresponding parts ( P- Selection ) using a reference and give them cut numbers;
24). ONLY NOW can you import the blend into The Sims 4 Studio. NEVER BEFORE ASSIGNING CUT NUMBERS. So find the right one and save it in Mods folder;
25). In UV editor select everything and go to UVs > Export UV Layout. Set it like this:
26). Import the image in diffuse in s4s. Save and check in CAS. Choose the default body, play with all sliders, test some walks and traits;
27). If there are problems, fix them. Once done, bake textures. Create Normal, shadow, specular maps;
28). Make LODs.
Last Edit: May 17, 2019 9:16:19 GMT -5 by mauvemorn
but I'm finding that unless the pattern pieces are mathematically similar (in the video, your pattern pieces were all divisible by 25) the process doesn't seem to work out as well and I end up having to move individual lines in order to get them to line up. Even then, there are wonky areas where the mesh wants to do its own thing, like this: If you want me to use your mesh as an example, it would be best to send an MD file instead of an obj one so that I will be able to split it evenly ( if needed ).
Oh my gosh, thank you so much! You have no idea how much your help means to me! I've been reading tutorials and watching hours of YouTube videos and it's all starting to get so jumbled in my head. I suppose the best thing to do is just forge ahead and stumble into mistakes, then come here and whine about it, lol.
Here's my MD file, and I've included an image of the actual shirt so you know what I'm trying to make: My mesh.
I gave up on the dress idea for now. I figure since all the tutorials are for shirts, I'll make a shirt. Eventually, I want to finish that dress I started but that'll be for later.
About MD mesh: - it's best to not use curve sided geometry, it makes the mesh so high poly it crushes my Blender... - armpit areas should be tighter; - split in half that pattern in the center; - i suggest you to tighten the back area, too, or change the fabric's properties to be more stiff, because you will have a hard time deciding edge flow.
In Blender: - if you want to preserve these pieces in the center through topology, assign a different material to them to see better and choose both Wire and Draw all edges in Object tab > Display; - you need to use Shrinkwrap modifier instead of Snapping to surface, it works better. Adding Subsurf modifier will save you time. Do not add mirror modifier until you have perfect uv_0 and uv_1 map. These are the settings
- in the tutorial, after enabling snapping, he also enabled Automatically merge vertices moved to the same location. I suggest to never use this feature bc it lags ( at least for me ). Not only does it not always merge them, but also does something that makes you unable to Remove doubles after. This is the edge flow:
I've been following your video HERE and I ran into some trouble. At around the 7-minute mark, or so, you go through the steps of transferring the UV from the flat pattern pieces to the newly retopologized mesh, but when I try to transfer my UVs I end up with just a giant square in the UV map. I could do Project from View using the flat pattern meshes, but I want to learn to do it the way the video explains. I'm using Blender 2.79 for this, so maybe I need to use a different version. Who knows? Not me. :-/
Edit: I didn't see your post until after I posted the above and...UGH! I thought I did a good job on that shirt! Sigh, back to Marvelous Designer. At least I learned quite a bit from your video I referenced above. And again, thank you for all the hand holding. It means a lot to me.
I haven't tried importing my mesh into Sims4Studio so I don't know if S4S will import a mesh made in 2.79 or not. Probably not. I switched from 2.76 to 2.79 because I thought that was the only version that will do the BSurface addon trick. I'm probably wrong. Like I said, it's all kind of getting jumbled in my head. If I can do the BSurface thing with version 2.76 then I'll switch back to that version.
I was following your video because I thought the method your video showed would work best to retopologize the shirt I was making (since the pattern pieces of my shirt aren't mathematically compatible), so I quickly made a skirt like the one in your video then followed your video step-by-step. Then I got stuck on the part where you transfer UVs.
I know I'm all over the place here, so bear with me, please. You've been really patient and helpful and I'm sure I'm throwing you off with all my questions. What I'm thinking is that I'd like to complete the steps in your video that I've been following (or perhaps the method in the Blender 4/4 video might work better), then redo the shirt in Marvelous Designer according to the instructions you posted above. Hopefully, between your video and your instructions, I can complete this project.
I don't want to throw too many questions at you, and I don't want you to get annoyed with me; you've been so helpful. When you responded to my original post, I got excited and told my husband, "Oh my gosh, Mauvemorn is helping me!" To me, it's like having Stephen King help you with a story you're writing, lol. You're really very good at all this. Over the past three years, I've developed my own methods of doing things in Blender which aren't efficient and aren't "professional." I have to now unlearn things and relearn to do things the correct way. It's painful, haha. Your help is absolutely invaluable.
To boil my game plan down:
1. Switch back to using Blender 2.76 since it does, indeed, include the BSurface addon 2. Go through your video titled, "MD Mesh Retopology. Blender ( Method 3/4 ) | ENG, RU SUBS" 3. Find out why I can't transfer the UVs the way the video describes 4. Go through your video titled, "MD Mesh Retopology. Blender ( Method 4/4 ) | ENG, RU SUBS" 5. Pray I don't run into trouble while following that video 6. Decide which retopology method will work best on my shirt project. 7. Redo the shirt in MD according to your instructions 8. Retopo the shirt according to whichever method works the best 9. Scream and cry as I try to do the weight painting and uv_1 10. Profit!
Edit: No, my source object isn't hidden, but maybe I couldn't transfer the UV because I was using 2.79. Using 2.76 might have better results. I'll try it and report back.
The first image is the result I get when I try to transfer the UV like you explained in your video. And the only way I could get the UV transferred was to open the tools panel--the keyboard shortcut T, for those who don't know--and use the data transfer tool found in the tools tab, under edit. Alternately, this can be done by the keyboard shortcut Shift Ctrl T. I just RMB clicked the target mesh, then shift-RMB clicked the source mesh, clicked the data transfer button in the tools panel, and chose UVs.
I get a much more even and neat result if my settings are like they are in the second image. Keep in mind, I really don't know fully why what I did worked and why the settings I used help. I've just been Googling and experimenting, trying to find an answer to my problem. Thought I'd share what finally seemed to work.
I'm using Blender 2.76 for this since it doesn't make sense to use 2.79 if Sims4Studio won't work with it.
About Blender's version, on The Sims 4 Studio download page it says that only 2.70 and 2.76 versions are supported. However, I use 2.78 and it works. I suggest you to use it, too. You may have noticed that in my retopology videos I use 2.79, the thing is, I filmed them when I was inactive, so I didn't know yet that it won't work.
2.76's data transfer looks ... different.I don't know what's going on and where the source object is
Don't worry about asking question, it is useful for me, too, since I can just copy-paste some parts of my responses when asked about similar issues.
As I mentioned in description of method 3, it's best for clothing with folds. So you should just use Bsurface for this
Anyway, here's a downloadable video of me retopologizing your sweater - when struggling to tuck to avatar, rotate the view until the dot appears where you want it. Make sure to not put it on seams; - as you see, i turned off curved side geometry twice because it didnt work the first time; - i tried to preserve this, um, complex pattern at the front through retopology, but i suggest you to not do this. you will have to tweak every vertex manually which can be avoided with smooth vertex tool ( i used it on the back pattern, do not select border edges when using it ). Just do in through textures. This is how you bake normal maps from high poly to low poly meshes, but he says at the end that you can do that for diffuse, too; - as you may know, screen recorders make other programs lag which i think is what caused blender to select an extra edge during edge loop selection and not select edge loops in uv editor; - also suggest to just unwrap meshes instead of transferring uvs for uv_0, at least in this case.
Last Edit: May 19, 2019 17:17:51 GMT -5 by mauvemorn
Thank you for this. It helps tremendously. In retrospect, I should have chosen an easier shirt to make than the one I'm doing, but since I plan on putting it on my Tumblr, I wanted to do something different. I mean, there are already like 10 million plain long sleeved shirts "out there" for Sims 4. I wanted to make something unique.
Edit: I'm wondering if it might be better to just model the front hashtag-looking part in Blender from a plane and just attach it to the shirt, merge vertices, and delete the shirt faces underneath that the hashtag-looking part covers. That way I can do more to fix the topology of the shirt, minus the hashtag-looking portion, in Marvelous Designer.
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